Tanzania – all 3 big cats in one morning! | WTN – Six Senses Samui | January 29, 2025

“You can never miss a game drive.”

That’s what our guide, Warren, reminds us of when he tells us about another early morning departure.

It’s day 7 on safari, so we are used to it. 5:45am is nothing compared to the 3:40am wake up call for the hot air balloon yesterday.

You never know what will happen on safari. You don’t want to be the one who decides to sleep in.

With full to-go cups of coffee we head out on our drive.

Over the next half an hour we see eagles, mongoose and a pumba (warthog – but everyone here calls them pumba – courtesy of the Lion King).

We keep our eyes peeled for something more exciting and Wallis spots with her naked eye, a couple of lions laying down in the distance. As we get closer it becomes clear they aren’t lions.

They are cheetahs!

Two males marking their territory – a bit like a graffiti artist but with their bodily fluids.

They move on.

Slowly.
Quietly.
Methodically.

They walk to the next tree. More marking.

We continue on and within two minutes happen upon a pride of lions. Four lionesses with their five cubs.

It’s 7am so their day is already over (they are out and about at nighttime).

All of them are resting. Some with eyes open and many with eyes closed.

One lioness gets up, walks a few steps and stares in the direction we just came from. She sits on her hind legs. Her eyes lock on something in the distance.

A second lioness joins her. Together they stare towards a far-off tree.

The two male cheetah we left a few minutes ago appear to be milling around. But they are intentional. Still marking.

The lionesses know they are there. The lionesses sit upright, not the least bit nervous of being seen.

They are sending a message.

The cheetahs spy the lionesses. They change direction and begin walking further away.

Cheetah don’t mess with lions.

The cheetahs know they are far enough away that they can get away if the lions run after them, so they continue their slow pace.

The lionesses have done their job. The cheetah know they are not welcome.

Three vultures soar above the pride and land. We don’t see any kills nearby but the vultures are there for a reason. Our guide, Zaki, tells us they feed on lion poop.

A hyena slinkers by in the distance, keeping space between him and the lions. A 4th vulture lands. Then a 5th. This one landing in a tree, a high up perch with a good view.

A long-legged maribu stork, one of the Ugly 5, gingerly steps through the grass.

A 6th vulture glides into a soft tree landing to join the others.

Two more hyenas walk with their distinctive limping gait nearby. Their short back legs allow them to expend less effort when chasing prey over long distances.

I could watch a snuggly lion pride for hours, but we also want to see more in our last day in the southern Serengeti.

As we drive away we pass three more hyenas.

We continue on.

Within minutes we spot two leopards at the base of an acacia tree. Our guide, Warren, identifies them as a mom and her juvenile cub.

Acacias are a good tree for leopards because their branches are solid and often with a gentle incline. Their leaves provide shade and coverage for leopards to drag their prey into the branches and keep it hidden for as long as possible from other predators.

We scan the tree. Warren says “Look there up in the branches.”

(warning: do not read on if you are squeemish)

A baby wildebeest dangles from the branches. His insides are gone.

No hyenas are here. No vultures.  But they are so close by, and have no idea that their next meal could be right here.

Mom and cub have done a good job of keeping the baby wildebeest hidden.

The mamma jumps in the tree climbing higher and higher until she reaches her kill. She grabs it and drags it up to a higher branch.

She starts her snacking.

We hear cracking and chewing. Teeth scraping on the hard bones.

Her cub leaves on patrol and perches himself in a nearby tree.

Momma is eating. Crunch crunch.

She pulls at the meat – the leg which is keeping it securely in the branch lifts up.

It looks precarious. But it doesn’t fall.

She goes on eating.

Thorns of the acacia tree shield her a bit from view.

The wildebeest’s head and front legs are extended upside down looking like a touchdown symbol.

The leopard’s back paws are hugging the tree.

She licks her lips.

Occasionally she glances off in the distance.

Then she tenderly licks the wildebeest almost like it’s her cub.

She walks to a lower branch. Laying down, she grooms herself. Licking her paws, wiping her whiskers.

We’ve now seen all three big cats – cheetah, lion and leopard, all within 1 mile!

That is an outstanding morning on safari.

We head back to the lodge. On the way we pass the pride with the five cubs. Three of them are nursing.

A beautiful sight.

Warren was right. You never want to miss a game drive.

📷 Warren and Mimi

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