WTN - Singita Kwitonda | Highlight - gorilla trekking | February 19, 2025

WHERE TO NEXT?

Dear Traveler,

If you live in the northern United States, I hope you are staying warm and cozy inside or spending time somewhere warm. Unless you are embracing the winter weather like we are. We had over a foot of snow in NH this week and I’m loving snowshoeing in the powder with Tigger!

When I’ve been traveling, sorting through all of my photos and videos to share with you takes a lot more time than a usual newsletter – so today this is coming late!

Check out this week’s highlight below for a glimpse into my favorite moments gorilla trekking in Rwanda two weeks ago. Getting to Rwanda is a big trip, but gorilla trekking is something everyone should have the opportunity to do once in their lifetime.

Here’s a little preview of my favorite baby gorilla playing in front of his dad, the great silverback.

Last week’s most popular article was 24 Wellness Resorts and Hotels You Should Book Right Now.

This week’s inspirational articles include 25 under the radar luxurious holiday ideas, the best things to do in Hokkaido and the best places in the world to travel solo.

Also articles on Spain, Tuscon, England mircofestivals and spring break destinations.

The informational articles include which premium economy seats are worth the upgrade and easier-to-get Golden Visas in New Zealand.

Where to next for you?

Below:

Highlight – gorilla trekking
Where to Next? Singita Kwitonda
Inspiration + Information

GORILLA TREKKING

Squelch.

I lift my boot out of the mud.

I step forward.

Squish.

Again and again I step, making my way up the steep terrain surrounded by dense jungle trees and vines on all sides.

Thwack thwack.

Up ahead of me, the trackers are hard at work cutting through the forest to carve our path.

A hush.

Cally, our guide, whispers “The gorillas are up ahead.”

“How close?” I ask

“Very. Just a few more minutes.”

My heart is beating fast.

From the anticipation? The hour-long uphill hike?

Both.

Our trek started by walking through the gentle rolling hills of farm fields. Workers were out tilling the land and tending their bleating goats. Often they were accompanied by a toddler, who was entertaining themselves while their parents worked. Including waving at us and reciprocating each time we waved back.

Then we arrived at a stone wall, its layers covered in moss.

Cally explained this was where Volcanoes National Park starts.

It was clear the other side of the wall was different terrain. The farmland replaced with eucalyptus and bamboo trees, dense vines and brush.

Are we entering Narnia?

It was an otherworldly landscape impenitrable with vegetation and who knows what else.

I did know (I asked) that there are no typical African predators, like lions, in the park. But there are forest buffalos. No need to surprise them. I’m staying close to Cally and my porter, Evariste.

With every step we are getting closer and closer to the HIRWA family. “Our” gorilla family that we are allowed to visit with for one hour today. No more.

Hirwa means lucky in Kiswahili.

The family was given that name because they have a set of twins, juvenile males.

The family is led by Uburanga, a 400+ pound silverback that protects them and keeps them close.

They live on the side of 12,000 foot high Mount Sabyinyo, which I could see from our lodge this morning.

I recorded this video just before Cally and our other guide, Rukundo, meet up with the four trackers who have been following the Hirwa family today. They lead us towards the last steep bit of terrain – this time downhill.

We have a final briefing about gorilla behavior and a reminder about how we should behave around the gorillas.

Cally makes the sound that he will repeat again and again while we are with the gorillas. Somewhat like a deep in your throat hmm-hmmmmm. Hmm-hmmmmm.

In gorilla language it means everything’s ok.

He says they understand it. I believe him.

Evariste, who has been carrying my backpack, smiles at me. As do the trackers and everyone in our group. We are all eager with anticipation to be so close to the gorillas.

We are about to come face to face with the Hirwa family.

It is time to leave the porters. I wave goodbye, say marakozi (thank you in Kiswahili) to Evariste and follow the lead of our guide.

I feel in my heart how special this opportunity is. With a maximum of 96 people visiting a total of 12 gorilla families each day, you are a lucky person to be one of them at some point in your life.

The density of the forest suddenly ends as we walk through what seems like a magical opening. We have entered an open space with a huge tree at the center. Its branches, leaves and vines obscure the sky above and partially shelter us from the misty raindrops that are now falling.

Off to my right I spy my first gorilla sitting on the forest floor. As my eyes get adjusted I can see she is holding a baby!

She is holding him tight.

I don’t blame her. We’ve just invaded her gorilla living room.

But after five minutes the little one leaves the safety of her embrace and begins climbing up the central tree. Hoisting himself up by grabbing on vines and pressing his feet against the trunk.

Scaling the branches with ease.

He starts holding on with one hand. Dangling from a vine. Making eye contact with me. Moving and playing.

His mom looks on.

I wonder if she finds him as entertaining as I do?

I am mesmerized with this precocious little guy.

I ask Cally what his name is.

Ingoboka.

Ingoboka climbs, balances, hangs – while munching on leaves.

He’s now horizontal, reaching for a vine that is a bit out of his grasp.

Don’t fall!

I need not be worried.

Ingoboka dexterously uses his opposable big toes to grab on and keep himself secure.

Now he’s upside down, snacking away, just feet from us.

I hear a thumping and see a mass running.

Out of nowhere the silverback, Uburanga, pounds his chest and charges to the right of the last person in our group (video – which I started about 2 seconds late).

It was a bit startling, but our guides had prepared us and were right there reminding us what to do (stay calm and move out of his way).

Uburanga stood there for a few minutes. Making grunting noises he then slowly walked to the edge of the living room and sat.

All the while Ingoboka was swinging in the tree. Now twirling upside down. To the left, then the right – using his foot to push him in opposite directions.

He looks like he’s one of my kids twirling from a rope swing.

He inspects the ground – maybe for a leaf.

He puts the end of the vine in his mouth and is now twirling like an acrobat in the circus. Barely holding on.

I feel how close we are to these creatures. How alike we are. 98% of our DNA is shared with gorillas. That’s seems plausible.

Uburanga lays down for a nap. Ingoboka is now climbing on branches and vines directly over his head.

My concern prompts another question to Cally.

“What will happen if the baby falls on Uburanga’s head while he’s napping?”

“Nothing. He may not even move.”

The time flies. They say being with a gorilla family is the fastest hour of your life.

I agree.

I was enraptured with that baby gorilla for almost 30 minutes (see the highlights of his acrobatics here). Now it is time to move on in search of the twins.

Me and Evariste, at the end of our trek.
I highly recommend hiring a porter. They used to either be poachers or kids of poachers and the $10/day they earn helps them support their families legally.

An incredible sculpture made out of branches – located on the way to the park.

🌟 As usual, I love staying and seeing many accommodations when I’m on a scouting trip. At Volcanoes National Park, I was at three. I loved them all! Today I want to highlight one of them – Singita Kwitonda Lodge. The lodge is located near Volcanoes National Park and is one of the top lodges in Rwanda.

Why is Singita Kwitonda so special?

Top of the line – EVERYTHING! A Dyson hairdryer, the best South African wines, a beautiful garden for farm to table cuisine, Fjällräven jackets, On Cloud hiking boots, incredible food and highly personalized service.
Our villa was beyond spacious! We had our own private outdoor terrace with a fireplace loaded and ready to be lit, a heated plunge pool overlooking VNP, a massage table set up in the bathroom (they are building a spa, so for the time being treatments are conveniently in your room), indoor and outdoor showers. See a video walk through of my room here.
The location is very close to VNP, allowing you to sleep later than other further away lodges the day you go gorilla trekking, one of the most sought-after wildlife encounters in the world.
Their pre-gorilla trek briefing. At 6pm the night before you go trekking, pick up your beverage of choice from the bartender and have a seat by the fire. For the next 40 minutes you’ll learn about the gorillas and step by step what your day will look like.
The chef’s counter in front of the open kitchen (picture below).

Do as much or as little as you like:

Explore the various hiking trails in Volcanoes National Park, including guided treks to the peaks of Mount Karisimbi or Mount Bisoke.
Looking for other primates? Embark on a trek to see golden monkeys in the park’s bamboo forests.
Unwind with a yoga session or indulge in a massage, facial or other wellness treatments to relax after a day of adventure.
Make pottery, sit in the garden or lounge in your plunge pool.

‼️ Don’t miss…. gorilla trekking (of course!). The treks are led by expert guides, taking you into the park to observe the endangered mountain gorillas.

The biggest challenge with staying at Singita Kwitonda is that it is so luxurious and cozy it would be easy to not leave the property. But you must because you are there for gorilla trekking. So consider adding on an extra day just to enjoy being there.