WHERE TO NEXT?
Hello Traveler,
Did you go to sleepaway camp as a kid? Or camping with your parents? Maybe you pitched a tent in your backyard?
Do you remember that feeling? The excitement building as you counted down the days. The anticipation mixed with a little bit of uncertainty about what adventures waited for you.
That childhood wonder doesn’t come around often as an adult. But there’s one trip that can bring it back – for you and your kids.
A safari.
And it’s much more luxurious than your summer camp!
Last month, I felt those butterflies again as I packed my bags for Kenya.
More on that in a moment. First, happy new year!
I hope you have had a cozy, fun and festive holiday season! Ours has been full of family, friends and favorite festive foods. This is the time each year I am reminded of how much I enjoy having my kids all home together. With three kids in college – together time is much less frequent than it used to be.
This week brings a special newsletter, diving into my return trip to Kenya a few weeks ago.
I have been on a lot of safaris, seen 100+ of the best safari lodges in Africa and again and again I am reminded of how special Kenya is. You’ll understand more after reading below.
In the meantime, it’s already time for me to take off again. Our daughter, Jessie, will be studying in Sydney next semester, and with 2 weeks between new years day and the day she needs to be there, there was just enough time for an adventure.
We are off for New Zealand…tomorrow!
I’ll share more on instagram while I’m there and even more when I return, but I will tell you, this trip has one of my favorite travel elements incorporated in a big way.
Contrasts.
After we spend a few days adventuring around Queenstown, we will be hiking the three day Routeburn Track. Because I booked this very late (less than 2 months ago), there were no private rooms left in the lodges. So we are in a shared room with two others (we have no idea who they are yet!). Although it’s not our usual, we are taking it in stride and are excited to meet fellow adventurers from another part of the world.
The night we finish the hike we fly to Taupo in the North Island to stay at the just reopened and reimagined, Condé Nast Traveler Gold List award winner, Huka Lodge. My best guess is we are two of very few people who have done the combo of these two accommodation types. We’ll also be staying at other beautiful hotels, but the contrast of a back-to-back shared lodge room and a luxurious suite at Huka will be fun!
Given I live in New England and our trails have been covered in ice, I’ve been walking up the steep hill near by house – up to 4x/day, just to make sure my legs are ready for the challenge.
Wish us luck!
And before we go, if you are a regular reader, you may know that Indiana is playing Alabama in the Rose Bowl today. It’s not in the plan for us to be there because we are about to head out on our trip, but because I knew it was a possibility I had the foresight to book our flight for January 2. We will be watching with a houseful of college kids.
Indiana hasn’t been to the Rose Bowl in almost 60 years. It is a true underdog story and we are hoping for the undefeated season to continue! On to Kenya….
There is a specific kind of magic that happens when you move beyond the typical and into the heart of Kenya’s private conservancies. My recent educational journey was defined by deep conservation roots, community ownership and the warmth of owner-operated lodges and camps. Our group didn’t just see the landscapes and wildlife; we experienced it all through the guides and tribes who call it home. This trip proved again that the most impactful travel experiences aren’t just about the wildlife you check off a list, but the people you meet and the memories you carry home.
Kenya is a place that stays with you long after the dust has settled on your boots. Whether it’s your first time in Africa or a long-awaited return, we’ll leverage all the gems I know to design your journey with as much soul and intentionality as this one. 
Nairobi National Park
Nowhere.
We kicked off with a morning game drive en route to the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, the most successful orphan-elephant rescue and rehabilitation program in the world. This was my second time at Sheldrick and seeing baby elephants never disappoints. They have both limited private visits (preferred for the access and exclusivity) and a larger group visit each day.
After being up close with the elephants we visited a local beading coop and enjoyed a delicious farm-to-table lunch at Cultiva Farm (a must visit!). The day ended with a final afternoon game drive and sundowners in the bush, watching the sky turn lilac with a drink in hand – the perfect welcome to Kenya.
Where We Stayed: The Emakoko
During our time in Nairobi, we stayed at The Emakoko, a boutique lodge built into the side of a valley on the Mbagathi River. Because it’s located within the park, your arrival transfer from the airport is essentially a 45-minute game drive. It is a unique way to transition to your adventure in Africa allowing you to have your “safari eyes” on – almost the moment you arrive.
Maasai Mara
One of the most exciting moments was watching a lioness sneak up on a family of warthogs. At the last moment they saw her and chaos ensued. They all ran in different directions and one was lucky to escape (video here). Baby warthogs are one of my favorite animals in Africa and I was glad the day ended well for him.
The vast wildlife and beautiful topography reminded me why this remains one of the most celebrated safari destinations on earth. 
Where We Stayed: Tangulia Mara
We stayed at Tangulia Mara, a property that holds a special place in the region as the first camp in the Mara to be entirely Maasai-owned and operated. Overlooking the Mara River, the camp offers a front-row seat to nature. I spent hours on my private veranda watching elephants and hippos gather just below. Because it is run by legendary guides, the experience here is deeply rooted in local knowledge and storytelling. It’s a rustic, authentic, and incredibly warm environment that makes you feel more like a guest in a family home than a lodge.
Enonkishu Conservancy
Next we were off to the Enonkishu Conservancy, a remarkable example of how conservation and community can thrive side-by-side. Once degraded farmland, this area has been beautifully restored through a collaboration between local Maasai landowners and conservationists. The landscape here is wonderfully varied, ranging from open grasslands to thick acacia woodlands and the winding Mara River. Our game drives were teeming with life: giraffe, zebra and impala were everywhere, alongside thriving populations of lions and hyenas. We also took to the trails for guided walks, which offered a slower, more intimate perspective and the chance to spot some of the region’s migratory birds. 
Although adult hyenas don’t usually top the list of beautiful animals, the pups are so cute….
Tonight, sundowners at a stunning villa on the top of a mountain…
Where We Stayed: House In The Wild
Our time in Enonkishu was centered at House in the Wild, a boutique lodge that perfectly captures the “home away from home.” Tucked away on the banks of the Mara River, this family-owned retreat is laid-back and intimate, with beautifully designed cottages that feel like private sanctuaries. I particularly loved the flat grassy areas in the middle of the property next to the pool – perfect for families with kids to play soccer or learn local games.
Ol Malo Conservancy
Our group was immersed in a remote luxury that goes far beyond the traditional vehicle safari. Highlights of our time here included some of us spending the night in a treehouse that was open to the stars…
My choice was the tent, a first (in the bush) for me.
I loved every bit of it!
We spent the evening next to the campfire as our dinner cooked in an iron pot hanging above. We listened Lesengay, our Samburu leader, share stories about his life and family. We had music going, and I played my favorites playlist, which gave us Noah Kahan’s music in the most peaceful setting.
We talked with our guides about how special this experience is and what other experiences are like it – overnight safaris by horseback or hiking multiple days through the bush. (On my list for next time).
After our comfy overnight in the tents (with no incidents), we woke to hot coffee over the renewed campfire and then had the quintessentially Kenyan experience of Lesengay leading us on a camel safari on the way to a bush breakfast (for bush omelettes – delish!) to reunite with our friends.
Later that afternoon while having tea at our lodge perched on a hill, we heard a sound in the distance. It came closer and out of nowhere a helicopter was right in front of us, the pilot waving and smiling. Surprise! He was here to pick us up!
We walked to the landing pad and hopped on. 20+ minutes of a thrilling, doors off (first for me), helicopter ride deep in a river valley following the wavy pattern of the river bed. With us, another helicopter full of our friends. I love helicopter rides in beautiful places and this was so special.
Off in the distance we saw a huge rock protruding from the earth in the flat Suguta Valley. To our surprise that is where our helicopters landed! This was our sundowner spot today and we enjoyed G&Ts as the sky turned shades of pink and orange.
WOW!
See some of the video of our ride here.
Our flight back to camp was equally fun and we flew over God’s Thumb, another massive rock jutting towards the sky, and many Samburu homes from above – with bomas to keep their animals sheltered. When we landed back at the lodge we learned the day was far from over.
Next up – a stop at the BrewShed, the tucked away bar, where the family makes their own gin and brews their own beer. It was a vibey mix of people – the family owners, staff, guests and guides.
Then our dinner together in a boma, centered around a fire. Warm, comforting food, fun people and ending with a game of jumbo Jenga.
During our conversations, we talked through all of the types of helicopter adventures that can be done in Kenya. One of which my clients did last year during their visit… In two helicopters (for a family of 8) with the doors off, their adventure flew them over the conservancy land, up to Lake Turkana, in the midst of what is referred to as the Cradle of Humankind. After spotting wildlife from the air and soaking up the beauty of this area of Kenya, the heli hovered over the water and they jumped out the open doors, plunging into the lake! If you have adventurous teenagers/college kids like I do, then this is an experience not to be missed!
This day can only be described as….
THE BEST DAY EVER!
Lewa Conservancy
With over 400 bird species and a landscape that feels alive at every turn, Lewa offered our group a rare opportunity to see conservation in action while surrounded by some of the highest concentrations of wildlife in Kenya.
We stopped by the ranger headquarters to see first hand how they track the animals. The ranger explained the screen showing a web of zig zagging lines that represented the path of collared elephants.
Later that day we saw rangers and their ranger dogs out on patrol. These efforts have been invaluable as there has not been a poaching incident in many years! Part of the dollars you spend on safari goes directly to helping preserve and protect the wildlife and their habitat.
100% worth it!
Where We Stayed: Lewa House
Set on top of a hill with a panoramic view of the rolling landscape of the Conservancy, Lewa House is a charming seven-room property that feels like a family home. Along with the original thatched family cottages, the property features iconic earth-pod cottages that blend seamlessly into the hills, providing a cozy but sophisticated retreat. I loved them! It was here that I found my favorite tub of the trip – outdoors on a veranda. The perfect spot to unwind after a long day underneath millions of stars in the sky.
Namunyak Wildlife Conservancy
It was here where we were immersed in the Samburu culture. With the accompaniment of our guides, who are local Samburu themselves, the community warmly welcomed us into their homes and we learned about their traditions – including their semi-nomadic life.
We sat on the floor next to a group of local women, including Jomarisa, who taught us to bead (they are much faster than me!). With our Samburu translator, and an invitation to ask anything, the conversation was wide ranging…
“Do you get jealous of your husband’s other wives?”
- It is a polygamous culture – and they appreciate having other women to share the burden of the household and raising kids.
“How do you know where your husband is spending the night?”
- He places his spear in the ground outside one wife’s house.
“How hard is it to pack up all of your things and move every few months?”
- This is all they know, so it’s just a part of life.
We had sundowners and played Samburu games, including a version of volleyball, in a dry riverbed, where Robert generously allowed me behind his bar to make blackcurrant margaritas – a local specialty that I loved!
A local blacksmith came over with his teenage son. He took a 4×3″ piece of metal Land Rover bumper and melted it down in a tin can over a fire fed by his son pumping air on it with a goatskin bellow. Once melted, he made a channel in the sand and poured in the liquid metal. He used a stick to move it as it cooled. Once cool enough to pick up with metal clamp he began pounding it on an anvil – thinner and thinner, longer and longer. Out of that small chunk of Land Rover bumper he made nine bracelets! Mine has a giraffe pattern and it’s my favorite keepsake from Africa. See the video here.
We learned about the culture of weddings and we were hoping to see one while there, but it was not to be. But on our final morning we were surprised to learn on our way to the airstrip we would be able to witness a rare and extremely private experience – the Singing Wells.
As with visits to their homes, no photography is allowed. It’s understandable as it’s an incredibly special experience and I was glad to have my full attention available, without thinking about my camera. Although I’ve been to Kenya before, the Singing Wells were not happening when I was here. One of the leaders of our trip had been here 10 times and this was the first time she was able to witness it.
The Singing Wells happen only during droughts, when the river beds are dry, but the Samburu animals – goats, sheep and cows still need water. Each family has a unique spot in the river beds that is theirs and they return to it year after year. Men dig a well. On our visit it was as deep as two men. At other times, in severe drought, it could be up to five men deep.
At the very bottom the herder is scooping up water in a bucket, handing it to the man above him and so on, until it reaches the top and he pours it in the trough. All the while the men are singing – a chant really. Special sounds that their animals know, so they go to the correct watering hole. I hummed the chant to myself for hours. But with time I lost its rhythm. I will plan another trip back here in the hope that I can witness this special experience with my family.
Where We Stayed: Reteti House
Nestled in the heart of the conservancy sits Reteti House, an incredible eco-lodge located only 10 minutes from the famed Reteti Elephant Sanctuary. The heart of the property is its spectacular open-plan lounge and infinity pool, both of which overlook a busy waterhole where you can watch elephants gather from the comfort of your sunlounger. One night while at dinner we also spotted a leopard quietly slip onto the edge of the water for a drink. Leopard sightings are always thrilling! It is a completely off-the-grid retreat that offers a profound sense of peace and intimacy, making it the perfect final chapter to a Kenyan safari.
REACH OUT TO PLAN YOUR
Lamu – off the coast of Kenya
A few of the more popular after-safari destinations include Zanzibar, Mozambique, the Kenyan coast, the Seychelles and Madagascar. Some inspiration:
- Very remote – some are only accessible by helicopter.
- Float on the sea on a luxury yacht, an authentic dhow, or a solo floating room.
- Learn about the culture and history of Stone Town.
- Go fishing.
- Focus on different wildlife – giant tortoise, whales, sharks, lemurs.
Our choice for this trip was floating for a few days on a dhow in the Indian Ocean in the Lamu Archipelago off the coast of Kenya. We relaxed a lot, went fishing, snorkeled, went on long beach walks collecting shells and ate more delicious food!
The staff of our boat was so warm and welcoming. Our chef, Junior (below), had a perpetual smile on his face. He created the most incredible meals in his small kitchen.
Most of my personal safaris have not included a few days relaxing on the water at the end, but next time I bring my family back, we will definitely adding on time at one of the above! Actually I know exactly where we will go and what we will do. I can’t wait!
A floating restaurant…
Our crew…
Cheers to 2026!
May it include the best adventures yet for your family!
